by Ernesto Johnson
(Madame C.J Walker)
In the 19th century, Madame C.J. Walker built a multi-million dollar cosmetic empire with innovative products geared to help women of color deal with the difficulties of caring for and maintaining their unique hair textures. Madame Walker’s hair products, alongside her competitors, promised consumers many miracles. Some products were effective, but not all. Back then, many of these products purported to make short hair longer, kinky hair straight and troublesome hair more manageable, regardless of how “wooly” or knotty their original hair was.
Although much has changed since the 19th century, women of color continue to face a large challenge and that is, how to present their crown to the world while still embracing who they are. Although we live in a diverse society, Latina and African American women seem largely to identify with hairdos belonging to other cultures.
Take for example the blond hair trend. The idiom “Blondes have more fun” appears to resonate strongly with black women as it may for white women because there are many women of color who color their hair blonde.
Nowadays, our women seem to have totally embraced the beauty standards held by Europeans, yet they struggle to embrace or even denounce their own ethnic identity. Black women in the entertainment field exemplify this notion since a majority of them are unnatural blondes. Mary J. Blige, Lil Kim, Keisha Cole, Beyonce, Vanessa Williams, Eve, Faith, Ciara (sometimes) are just a few examples.
It’s no wonder why so many women identify with celebrities, but it is somewhat peculiar to see so many of them altering their appearance to look less ethnic, in favor of a more universal look. Sadly, they all appear to be clones.
We will never really know if the expression “Blondes have more fun” holds true, but what is a known fact is that many blacks grapple to embrace the notion that “Black is beautiful”.
Gauging from all of the alternative measures some women take to style their hair, its arguable that some don’t feel as if their own hair is beautiful, or rather, as beautiful as their European sisters. Perms, relaxers, hair straighteners and other applications have made hair more manageable, and attractive, but for some, that is still not enough.
So, are women who do not identify with hairstyles indicative of their roots or hair texture insecure about their ethnic heritage? Possibly!
Why is it that you rarely find Asian or Muslim (and others too) women who blonde their hair, yet black and Latina women are so inclined to go blonde? Why aren’t all women influenced by the dominating culture? Who teaches or what teaches black women not to embrace themselves? The notion that “Black is beautiful” is seldom exhibited through these women’s appearance because those who always add length or a different hair texture are attempting to look like someone else, especially if they do not feel comfortable styling their own hair.
Braids, extensions, wigs, and weaves have become the answer for lots of women with kinky or short hair, but is having short hair so appalling? With time and dedication, the length or fullness that they wish for can be naturally attained. Even young girls have taken to these hair techniques now. My friend Tina said, “Those hairstyles are just easier to manage than doing your own hair and it saves us time and effort.” The irony with weaves, wigs and braids is that although it does provides a short-term solution, prolonged use can cause hair loss, especially around the hairline areas. It is such a paradox that the measures taken for enhancement could facilitate the opposite effect. Both subconsciously and deliberately, a large majority of women who sport these contrived hairstyles overlook the damage these styles can cause, all in favor of a more exotic and accepted look.
Straight, curly, or long hair is characteristically considered idyllic, or “good hair,” while hair that is wooly, thick and/or short is resented and deemed undesirable or ugly. In some cases, women who have thick, wooly hair have been referred to as someone who has “naps” which is a deprecating term that means bad hair. Nevertheless, because of the texture some women have, many black women have to toil with their hair far more than people from other backgrounds, but that aspect alone does not make them any less beautiful.
In Harlem, all along 125th street head shops ran by Africans turn huge profits providing young girls and women hairstyles radically different from their own. Nowadays, having your own hair has become outdated and within a few hours, anyone can be made to look like Pamela Anderson, Marilyn Monroe, or even Lil Kim if they have the money and hours to spend in the salon. What many women should be aware of is the fact that not all hair stylist or hair technicians are competent and some incidentally mistreat or misinform customers about proper hair care and suitable hair care products.
Like other cosmetic procedures, extensions, wigs and weaves can become habitual and expensive, yet regardless of the expense and the dependency (and in some cases hair loss) these hair styles can pose, they are still heavily demanded; especially from those who benefit from the convenience these alternatives supposedly provide.
Cosmetics should not be the only solution for women with unmanageable hair. Many of the answers to the challenges they face can be resolved with patience.
Desperate for solutions, some women try almost anything with hopes of finding a look that they are comfortable with, but some go excessively far, like hip hop recording artist, Lil Kim who no longer resemble a woman of color. Cosmetics ought to simply offer some variety and short-term solutions, not anything permanent, nor anything that would make you appear to love yourself any less.
Nevertheless, there are alternatives for women who may have patronized a parlor that has damaged their hair. One option to consider is the essential wash and set from the Dominican hair salons. These shops provide hair-care that is simple, yet fly and affordable, and they provide service to women with various hair textures. Many women choose to patronize Dominican establishments because they are affordable and arguably, they use products that promote healthier hair.
Everyone has something that they would like to change or enhance about themselves, but there are some things people just have to accept.
Looking good takes time and effort and some people are merely interested in the results, not the process. Having long hair takes years to attain and for women who desire length, it can be obtained most times, but it requires patience. Another key is learning how to take care of the hair you were born with. Most hair alternatives only mask the underlying problem.
People of color have far greater challenges when it comes to maintaining their hair, but thanks to the advances Madame C.J. Walker made, there are far more options available. The once formidable kinks, naps, peezy, knotted hair can now be managed with perms and relaxers and the stigma that some have of bad hair could be a thing of the past. Everyone deserves to sport a look that makes them feel comfortable without ignoring their identity.
For the record, there’s nothing wrong with women who sport wigs, weaves, braids, etc., (many of the styles are actually nice), but it is odd when women don’t feel the same comfort sporting their own head of hair.
Black and Brown women, in the words of the immortal Barry White:
Don’t go changing
Trying to please me
You never let me down before
… I love you just the way you are.
